The Ripper my 1965 Mustang Race Car

Early Ripper Video at the Motorator

“The Ripper” is a 1965 Mustang Fastback done with a modern R Model treatment. 17″ Rims, 331 Aluminum SVO block and Canfield heads. Transmission is a Tremec TKO (It has to be replaced not a great road race box). And finally a nice 9″ with 3.89’s Strange gears and posi. Full mufflers and 3″ X-Pipe all the way back. Yes, Street legal. Horsepower is about 306 just like the originals… Well maybe not. Go to www.gtsparkplugs for more pictures and information. Also you can find links to videos that are now hosted at the Motorator.
Skid Pad View of my 1965 Mustang Fastback

The Ripper Side View

10 Responses to The Ripper my 1965 Mustang Race Car

  1. Sandy March 18, 2008 at 2:15 am #

    The Spare motor is now at the shop. Will see how this goes. I ended up taking the motor back from the shop that had it (almost 2 yrs) and didn’t do anything. So now it is at QMP Race Engines in chatsworth.

    He the owner was the fellow who worked for the engine builder that built the motor for the VSE Cobra. He has a nice shop, and does a nice bunch of drag race motors. Will see how he does with this motor. Most of the parts are from me and that should just be some machine work on the fresh SVO Aluminum block and some other odds and ends.

    I have dyno numbers for the last 331 and hopefully this should do a bit better. The last motor peak HP was at 7000 Rpm, and it should have been a bit higher for the gearing and tire combination. So this engine should be targeted at 7500 RPM peak HP so I can stretch a bit further if needed.

    And so it begins with a new engine builder…

  2. Sandy March 25, 2008 at 6:15 am #

    Started breaking the engine down. Manifold and valve covers off… What do I see, some sorta’ bad stuff.

    2 Broken Valve Springs, outer shattered. Inner spring intact
    1 Bent valve, and not on one with a broken spring.
    1 Shaft of the rockers split in the center, but still intact and set of rockers OK. Looks to have been broken for a while as wear marks indicate this in the cradle as a visible mark.

    I drained the oil through a cooking strainer (Don’t ask where I got it…) and not much but one small chunk of aluminum came out, not much else oil looked pretty clean I guess it really stopped circulating so likely didn’t pick up lots of small particles. Found a few more of similar sided chunks (about the size of a match stick head or a bit larger) in the valley area. Not sure what it is, might be piston skirt or something block related which is the worst case as the block is the most expensive part, next heads, last crank and rods. The Bronze distributor gear was semi-intact but looks like a grinding/stripping was in process. Roller lifters looked intact, all cam up out of the bores, but hard to tell if something is mashed until I yank the heads off (on SBF 8.2 Deck’s, not sure about 351w’s)

    Some guesses at this point. Over rev on down shift broke a spring or two. That $hit (the shrapnel), got into the pump and likely seized it. Since the Oil pressure did not gradually stop, it was an instant drop to zero as can be seen in the video. I’m still expecting to see a twisted off shaft on oil pump drive

    More tear down, needed but need to remove the radiator, water pump, and a few other things. Then hopefully I can yank the engine out.

    I’ll get the carb and ported Super Victor manifold and valve covers to QMP Racing so the good stuff goes on šŸ˜‰

  3. Sandy March 30, 2008 at 4:18 am #

    Pulled the Oil Pump Shaft with a magnet tool and it came out except for the bottom hex portion that is likely still in the oil pump shaft. So yes, a broken oil pump shaft. Have not got to tearing it down any more, but more to come as I find out…

  4. Sandy April 25, 2008 at 4:38 am #

    Well got time to put up some pictures on the main site. Click HERE for the “Hall of Shame”. I have also included in the Hall of Shame, a few other parts that I could dig up that were mangled by me. The odd thing is that the root cause of most breakage that I have had was due to ‘Speed Shifting’. See the comments on the page, may be enlightening for those that like to bang a gear now and then…

    A quick shot of one of the broken valve springs. What I can’t figure out is how long was the spring broken for? Never had any popping or other issues up to the seizure, and it was full till at that point. Maybe only need to run inner springs…

    Broken Valve Spring

  5. Sandy May 9, 2008 at 9:52 pm #

    Progress on the Engine. Had a short wait on some pistons for the motor, but all now good. The boys at QMP are now hard at work on the motor. I thinkĀ the only parts that will be needed are a set of nice Manton tapered pushrods, and a set of stout (Fresh) Isky springs. After seing the broken valvesprings no reason to save a few hundered bucks and risk another broken motor.

    On a side note while looking at the front of the Mustang I was thinking that cutting open the radiator support and installing a larger radiator. The Fluidyne Mustang drop in radiator is as good as it gets for the stock location but on the edge for a hopped up 4 barrel 289 like ‘The Ripper’ has (Read sarcastic). Well the problem is on a hot track day (Willow Springs Hot), the temperature of the motor can edge close to 240F and I’m pretty sure that’s not good. The radiator from Fluidyne is a 3.5″ thick 3 core model but when all said and done it is still small from a surface area perspective. Not to mention that it is a top tank like the original, which are know to be less effective at cooling then the longer tube side tank models. Again, it is the best you can do in a stock location in a single pass unit. One of my equally sarcastic pals mentioned that if I get rid of the oil cooler it might help since it blocks about 50% of the radiator. Ha ha, just need a bigger radiator.

    Now to the meat, I was looking at the size of radiators that might fit after cutting a larger opening in the radiator support and it seems that a 67-69 Chevy Camaro might be perfect. The Camaro radiator has the size that will work and side brackets similar to the Ford style. Fluidyne also makes it in a 3.5″ 3 core model so it will be similar in construction (heavy duty) as the last one. Hoses for the Chevy radiator bottoms are on the same side as the the early Ford, so that’s cool (no pun intended), and the top doesn’t really matter so all might be good, I’ll add a swivel CSR billet thermostat housing and section the hoses from the HRP Silicon hose and elbows. Will work good and look good, and as you know ‘The Ripper’ is very aware of his apperance šŸ™‚

    More on the radiator project as it unfolds…

  6. Sandy May 11, 2008 at 7:44 pm #

    With the help of Matt the Motorator who has done a 65 with a side tank radiator, I think it is all good. The 67-69 Chevy Camaro radiator seems to be the perfect size, and similar core thickness since it is from Fluidyne. I think it has about 35% more exposed core area then the Mustang top tank version. That should be good for some noticeable drop in temps when at the track or traffic street use when heading out to Bob’s big boy. I then thought hell, if I have 35% more cooling capacity I should make 35% more horsepower to take advantage of that… Well I know it doesn’t work that way, but it’s comforting to know that I will have a bit more headroom in the cooling system. Here is how it’s done… (not me yet, but worth a look)

    Side Tank Radiator Install

  7. Sandy May 29, 2008 at 6:20 am #

    DamBest 358 Carb

    Added a page for the modifications to the DamBest carb that is used on The Ripper. Not very exciting, but the simple mods that John Satterfield’s told me to do. Basically some idle circuit changes and drilling some holes in the throttle blades. These modifications were specific for my engine and cam combination. Which basically was a large 106 degree centerline cam with not much idle vacuum. You should talk with John before messing with you carb as he will get you on track before you get into any trouble!

    Here is the quick link back to the page…

    DamBest Carb Modifications

  8. Sandy June 4, 2008 at 7:24 pm #

    Here is a picture of the plugs, click to see them on the main site. They look pretty good for what I would normally have.
    The Ripper's Spark Plugs

  9. Sandy June 4, 2008 at 7:32 pm #

    Also while at the LA Concourse dā€™ Elegance a nice vintage 1969 Z28 was in the mix. Low and behold it had the Fluidyne Radiator that I’m thinking of tossing into the stang’. Looked like it was made to fit, nice. I need to unload the stock shaped one and will order one up from wither Summit Racing or HRP World. Summit is more and has a ship surcharge, but they said they will match the price on the web, so I’ll give them a try as I need to order some other parts as well. Otherwise HRP will get the business.

  10. Sandy August 29, 2008 at 9:18 am #

    Where was I…

    Ok, I have the 69′ Z28 Fluidyne radiator and looks like a nice fit after a casual inspection. Motor still in the mustang, but all stripped down to the point of easy removal. HRP (Hoerr Racing) had a good price on it, and free shipping, Summit had the same part but was $50 or so more and extra charge for the large item. I called them, and said price match me as a valued customer. The did and gave me free shipping including the handling charge. Good times!

    The saga on the motor-

    It is actually moving along. QMP had some bumps in the machining of the block, but are all past it. Got the call last week that the pan didn’t fit. Hmm, didn’t I tell Armondo that I’m using a 4 bolt block…YES, so it seems all, and I mean all oil pan manufactures I have used so far can’t get that right. QMP Trimmed the back cap and a bit of hammering on the pan, BACK IN BIZ’ Thanks Brad for the quick fix. I spoke with QMP the other day and my Tapered Manton pushrods now the top end can get put together. Next week DYNO. This motor better crack close to 600hp or I’ll be really bummed out. The last one made about 570hp with a smaller cam, so if things are working as expected should be OK. The GT40 motor with same cam similar heads (Edelbrock Victor’s) did 620hp at 7500rpm. And while the Canfields are not quite as flow-ee as the Victors, I think they are a better head (of course IMO).

    Tick Tock will tell. Got to get ‘The Ripper’ back on track.

    P.S. If you are foolish enough to ask me about the motor at the track be ready for my stock answer, well, right around 375hp, it just revs high.

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