Nothing New But the Tiger

Well not much new. Have to go and yank the motor out in the next week (VSE Cobra). BUMMED about that screw job. The next thing is to get the tiger under way. Hopefully no FLOG shit will happen with this job. I have gathered a bunch of parts already for the Tiger transformation. Got the word that the pistons are ready from Ross, and they are on their way. Have a David Kee top loader under construction, picked up the bell housing. Just waiting on the new Dana ring and pinion and Dana Truetrac (really a Torsen I think). Dale at Dale’s restoration has also some tips on fixing up the Dana 44 to support real axles instead of the 2 piece that the Tiger’s have. Waiting on the Tiger pan from Armondo’s racing Pans and lastly the cam selection. The cam selection (Solid Roller) is the tricky part. Heads should be good to 7500, but not sure that I want to hammer the Tiger motor that hard. Looking line one of the Comp-Cams ‘Street Rollers’. I hate the sound of that already. The 2 that I’m looking at are the 35-771 and 35-772 for 351W motors. They look either will get the work done, just at what point in the RPM range. The 772 looks good on desktop dyno to about 7200 and the 771 about 7k. so both are pretty close but the 771’s area under the curve looks actually better. Maybe smaller is better?

21 Responses to Nothing New But the Tiger

  1. Administrator September 13, 2007 at 10:35 pm #

    Well, put the order in for some of that last parts needed for the build. Summit Racing is my friend, late night ordering when ever I can’t sleep!

    Read this — This is the first time that I have EVER went conservative with a camshaft selection. I ordered the 35-771 Comp Cams XR280 R-10 grind as it be. But give me no grief as it is still a sold roller cam. I’m nervous, maybe I’ll be alienated because of this less is more attitude, but what can you do. Another area that rocks with Small Block Chevy’s is alternator selection and bracketing. Your much more limited (read screwed) if you want something out of the norm for the SBF. I am going to hack something up, so I picked up a Moroso Drag Race Ford mini-alternator bracket for electric pump use but may just work fine (or just didn’t mention) that it will work on the regular pump. I’ll make it work I’m thinking. So that combined with the Powermaster 1 wire alternator (Denso 45 amp) should do the trick. I did try to see about getting another RACEMATE alternator / water pump, but too hard to get a hold of them. That is still one of the trickest (most trick) things if you can afford it. The Tiger pulleys look odd as they are very close to the balancer so doing it with the stock pulleys and messing with the mini – alternator is the plan.

    UPS did do a major shipment the other day, got the following –

    • Ross Pistons (Thanks Pat)
    • Truetrac
    • Ring and Pinion and Install Kit (DTS)
    • T & D Shaft Rockers
    • Bell Housing and related from an early mustang

    I have already ‘In Stock’

    • Canfield TEA Built Ported Head (For SOLID ROLLER)
    • TWM IR Manifold and Injection (Based on Weber IDA’s)
    • Halltech Fuel only computer
    • Remote Oil Adapter
    • Dart Machine Alloy 8.2″ Aluminum Block
    • Various ARP Bolts and Head Studs
  2. Administrator September 16, 2007 at 3:40 am #

    Finally drove the Tiger today! Yippe. No over heating, just some dirt in my eyes from all the deteroiating foam from the old seats that was flying around. The stock 260 is pretty weak, but still plenty of fun. The car ran actually pretty good. It was mid to high 80s F, car ran cool at 190 all day. Not much else, tight handled good, but tires are not very sticky (13x195x65’s). Fun to make right turns and make the 13’s squeel. Mainly just a shake out run seems ok. Needs the aluminum motor and some juice. Definitly brakes will be needed as well as what every thing you have heard of the bad ackerman angle on tight turns. All in all a fun car! TLC coming soon.

  3. Administrator September 22, 2007 at 5:07 pm #

    Drove ‘Tony The Tiger’ the following Sunday to Super Car Sunday which is a large parking lot in front of some shops in the Woodland Hills area (California). I was way too late, but still some interesting cars floating around. Someone gave me a thumbs up. The 260 is tired, and seems to smoke a bit when you stop, but not all the time. Also idle was good then bad. It may be a problem with the PCV sucking oil (doesn’t look like any baffles in the valve cover), or just a tired motor. The close ratio toploader works well except out of the hole, it has a 2.32 (I think) and a combined with the 2.88 ring and pinion and the rather tall 13x195x65’s it is a bit lackluster. I did not do any burn outs, bleach or otherwise. I don’t want to break it. This is really a fun little car. A guys Mazada Miata (sorry if I again offend again) from the 1960’s.

    The David Kee toploader is done, and a Mcleod pressure plate, dual friction kevlar disk and a new ‘T’ bar for the shifter. The trans is has a 2.44 first but is otherwise the same ratios as a close ratio box. I have the later 6 bolt bell (Ford) and waiting for the Aluminum Fidanza flywheel. I depated from the tried and True McLeod aluminum version as they are getting close to $500, and I have had very good feed back on the Fidanza wheel, and it was about $265 Shipped, hope it is not a P.O.S.

    More as it unfolds!

  4. Administrator September 28, 2007 at 8:22 pm #

    The Transmission from David Kee has arrived, but I have not yet open the coffin as my wife called it. All the clutch and shifter goodies, just need to get a Crankshaft and get the engine moving. Looks like also the 225x50x15’s in the rear and 205x50x15’s in the front will be the combination as several Sunbeam Tiger oweners have that with Panasport rims. Rolling of the fenders was necessary in all cases but no ugly flares needed. Those sized tires are good, plenty of street performance tires and my favorite Kumho Victoracer V710 style.

  5. Administrator October 9, 2007 at 5:18 am #

    Got the pan from Armondo’s Racing Pans and it looks as good as the last one. Very nicely done. Also picked up a set of Kumho V710’s 205x50x15 as they were on clearance (SALE) at the Tirerack. The did pull a fast one, after I ordered them, I got a call back mentioning that they were actually old stock and if that was OK. Well given they likely will be a bit harder from being older I figured that would be ok for the first set. Still need the 225’s. Will need to get the rims and the car over to Dale’s Resto for axle work and rims before I waste any more money stocking tires. Last part to show was the 6 Bolt bell housing clutch slave bracket to replace the 5 Bolt version that is on the car now.

    The flywheel insert did arrive, had to screw a bunch of phillips head screws to 5 Lbs of torque. Sure, I’ll get that right, Just made them tight and then some. So not too much of a pain, just a bit of wasted time having to assemble it. Oh well. That is EBay, at least they sent it without a problem. Oh, I did get some STD bearings so I can toss in a 5.0 Crank and get things mocked up with pulley and water pump, balancer. I think some stock flat pulley’s from March performance will work, but will just have to get them and see.

  6. Administrator October 23, 2007 at 8:04 pm #

    Still waiting for the 5.0 mock up crankshaft. The Dart block is on the engine stand at ‘The Warehouse’ awaiting mock up. The rest of the parts I think are all sitting ready for assembly. I did have to order some Cometic Head gaskets for the larger bore block, and they were about 60 bucks a gasket. Oh well, at least they have them. Other then that project slowly moving forward. Picked up some Ebay odds and ends for the car, vent pulls, lower dash pad, clutch and brake pedal rubber. Just need the time to get the car down to Dale’s restoration and have him do some magic. Tony the Tiger is sad, he said he want a new motor. I guess I’ll have to help him out πŸ˜‰

  7. Administrator November 8, 2007 at 8:30 pm #

    Got the crank. Standard 5.0 cranks, this weekend I’ll mock up the motor and see how the stuff fits. Order some HiPo 289 valve covers (Chrome) to see if I can hide the shaft rockers under. Otherwise I’ll likely see about a set of the tiger cast aluminum covers. Last bits of the engine parts ordered, starter, water pump, and a few other bits. Hopefully will have something going to the engine shop in a few weeks. As mention by someone this car may have some history as an old Woodbridge Ford race car, but hard to say, and don’t really know what it all means.

  8. Sandy December 27, 2007 at 3:47 am #

    Well slow going, but I picked up some metal from onlinemetals.com and made a small bracket for mounting the mini-alternator (the powermaster). Used the plasma cutter and a good amount of belt sanding, came out nice.

    Also started working on mounting the canton mecca filter to a bracket that will mount where the old style Tiger filter was.

    Pics
    Bracket

    And one on the motor

    On the motor

  9. Sandy December 29, 2007 at 6:51 am #

    Someone asked about the part number for the Moroso kit, is a Moroso 63810 Ford Mini-Alternator mounting Kit. Most of the part are not used since I wanted to mount the alternator tucked in tight. The rod ends and adjusters as well as the spacers are all that are useful. All could be had cheaper or simple made. NPD Mustang sells spacers and rod ends are easy to get. But most of what you need can be scavenged from this kit. I purchased it from Speedway motors which was less then Jeg’s or Summit Racing.

  10. Sandy December 29, 2007 at 6:54 am #

    Here are a couple of shots of the canton mecca external oil filter bracket that I made… Well just the parts. The billet filter bracket was a Canton part for the square housing.

    Unassembled parts

    The assembled part.

    Assembled bracket

  11. Sandy February 8, 2008 at 5:43 am #

    Well been quiet for a bit on the Tiger. I worked a bit on getting the Harmonic Balancer put on the crank so I would be ready for the pulley from Dale’s Restoration (Sunbeam Tiger racer/restorer). Well something got lost in the translation about the pulley’s and I got a flat lower pulley with no offset out. The balancer is a 4 bolt flat face unit which seems to have been confused with a 4 bolt ‘outie’ type. Back goes the lower pulley. This time I sent back the dimensions of the face of the harmonic balancer to the face of the water pump flange, as well as the dimension that the water pump flange can be pushed back closer towards the pump. Let’s see how that works to get something right. Otherwise, looks like a stock set of March Pulley’s will work, and seems I have a set that will work for the combination. The downside is the March pulley’s will be closer to the front of the radiator. Too close for a fan? Not sure. Hopefully Dale will get things sorted out and it will all align up. Pain in the a$$.

  12. Sandy February 24, 2008 at 6:30 pm #

    Back from a spell of wasted time and other projects. I got the pulley back from Dale and this one is the correct offset for the flat faced harmonic balance that I used. It seems the other one would have worked as well as I found in the package the balancer came in an adapter and offset kit (Sorry Dale, found it after I got the other pulley back). The adapter looked shady, the solid pulley is better then the rigging it up with the ‘universal’ adapter. Got the Water pump on the press and carefully pushed the flange down on the Edelbrock Victor Water Pump. Pushed it just right or so I thought. Seem the underside of the water pump hits the back protrusion on the flange just a bit. What echoed in my mind was Dale saying not to press it too far or it will hit the casing as it’s very difficult to move the flange away (opposite direction). Well it’s not too close for clearance from the case of the pump but seems to be hitting the front bearing or seal! Would make short life of the pump. Well, seems the problem is easy to solve the flange is tapped for the fan bolts, just threaded 2 in and used the longer bolts to push the flange away a bit, just a bit until it rotated without any obstruction. Thinking I’m all happy I go to align up the alternator…

    Well seems that moving the pulley back has sucked away the nice space between the alternator and head, it seems the overall rear thickness is, oh, about .125″ too deep now since I moved the flange back .35″ or so. So now I have 2 options, swing the alternator down lower where it clears the head better or move the pulleys about about .125″.

    Using the low mount means I will have to ditch the nice bracket I made and tie the adjuster to one of the long (a single) water pump bolt. Or Space it out back out some.

    I don’t like the idea of having the adjust just hung off one of the thin and long bolts, but I may have to. The other option as I mentioned was to move the pulley’s out a bit. I’m going to measure in the car and see how much room I have. I know I can pull the front flange of the water pump out a bit and getting a space made for the bottom would just be a $$ project.

    My last ditch effort is to see on the car how much room I really have and just hack the crossmember to allow a narrow march pulley set to work.

    Pain in the ass. I better get moving and open the hood on the Tiger and see what else I can do…

    I did also work on the TWM injection and moved the Fuel input and return to the back of the motor so they are not over the distributor. This looks a bit better as well for spark plug wires which are really tight between the distributor and the bottom of the fuel rails.

  13. Sandy February 26, 2008 at 5:04 pm #

    Well looks like almost 1/2″ between the bottom pulley and the rack. The Crossmember is not even in play with a smaller diameter lower pulley it seems. I am going to be F’n pissed off if a stock set of single belt march pulleys would have worked. I have a set and I’m going to give that a try. I also need to find out what happens to the steering rack when you replace it with the MGB version and adapters from Dale. Worse case I’ll make a spacer to move the lower pulley out a bit so the alternator will align up and I can still use my fancy smancy bracket.

  14. Sandy February 29, 2008 at 8:19 pm #

    One other item of note, the bolts that are shown in the bracket will not clear the back side of the water pump pulley if the pump flange is pushed back. You will have to do some countersunk allen head bolts or counter bore the bracket. I’ll hold on any more work until I figure out the pulley problems. I really hope that a single pulley set from march will work, all will be fine in the universe if that’s the case. I’ll also have some parts for sale if it does πŸ˜‰

  15. Sandy March 7, 2008 at 7:16 pm #

    Here is a shot of the pump on the press. Note that the top is just a large impact socket. Also you must put somethings under the pump SHAFT on the back before pressing it. Do not use the impeller as the support from the back. The impeller has a opening the diameter of the shaft and put a smaller nut so that you are only pressing down on the pump shaft not the impeller it self. I didn’t have a camera only the phone, so only took one shot of the pump on the press. Here is the Edelbrock pump getting the squeeze…

    Edelbrock Water pump on the press

  16. Sandy March 20, 2008 at 4:40 am #

    While looking for harmonic balancer spacers for the set up to move out the pulleys about .125 to fit the alternator. I was on Speedway Motors site and found a balancer spacer for a 4 bolt pulley, may not help as my pulley is now a 3 bolt version, but at least it may be something that can be drilled out easily and thinned a bit. The spacer is .350 and maybe with a little work on the lathe it can be used. Will see when it arrives.

    On a tangential note I was scanning the ‘Garage Sale’ section and saw something that said ‘Sunbeam’ on it, of course it caught my eye and it wasn’t a toaster. I Ended up finding a Grant Products steering wheel adapters for the Sunbeam Alpine, which with some modifications will work on the Sunbeam Tiger. Seems to be a hard to find part, since it was discontinued many years ago.

    Tony the Tiger has a Lecarra / Motolita wheel and adapter, and while nicer then the el-stock-o Tiger steering wheel, I’m not sure I’m fond of it. They make other wheels that are nicer, but I really always hated the Motolita big hub with all the screws holding the wheel to the adapter. Too big. I like the Nardi, Grant, and some of the others that have a smaller bolt patter. The nice thing about the Grant is that you can use a variety of steering wheels that are easy to get in a bunch of sizes. While not leather, some are good for racing. I’m not sure how to make a steering wheel quick release but I’ll leave that project for another day.

    Hmmm Mahogany might be the way to go with a dashboard redo it might be just the ticket. Well, I better not get too far out in front, I don’t even have the gauges back yet πŸ˜‰

    Slowly but surely Tony is getting together…

  17. Sandy April 24, 2008 at 6:11 pm #

    Well, got a quick rework done on the bracket to make it use counter sunk allen bolts. Will work now with the pushed back water pump flange. Here it is revised and on the motor. Also check HERE for better pics of the bracket and the new modified dipstick which I had to hack since the alternator is where the older stock style would end up.

    Revised Bracket

  18. Sandy August 25, 2008 at 9:33 am #

    Well it has been very quiet with the Tiger. I took it out a few weeks ago and had a blast. I forgot how much fun that car is. One magical thing that is in the works…I’m on the very, very short list of the Mike Hokanson front suspension. I have worked out all the details with Mike and will be in the mix soon. The basic set up is going to be regular Tiger track width, 11.75″x1.25″ Rotors for 15″ Rims, Wilwood Forged Dynalites, J Compound Pads, and 5 Lug Standard Ford pattern. One issue might become a problem, the Aviaid/Armondo racing pan has a front lip on the pan, and that might be a problem with the new steering rack mounting position. I’ll sort that out either with the welder or a new pan if it does not fit. So while I’m stalled some things are moving. I think I will need to sort out the rear end, but I’m still thinking about the Dana 44 with late model 9″ housing ends. Then all will be fine with brakes and all the other Dana 44 parts I have.

  19. Sandy December 4, 2008 at 9:43 am #

    Been too quite here, so a quick update!

    Picked up the Hokanson’s Front suspension a few weeks ago and stuff it into the Garage. There it sits. I have poked my head in to take a look and it is hot! The basic set up was to include 1.25″ wide x 11.75″ rotors, Wilwood Dynalite calipers (more on those later), QA1 Coil overs, 5 on 4.5″ bolt pattern (Ford), nice Rack and Pinion, etc. I also was fortunate in that Mike had toted the assembly down for a CAT Club meeting and got to pick it up and meet him first hand. Craftsmanship is excellent throughout.

    Back to the Brakes, well I have always thought of the Dynalites as REAR brakes or something that would be marginal for track use on the front of a car. They are likely ok with some nice compounds given I have a pretty large rotor (for the car) and the car is pretty light. But I just hate that they are really small pads vs. the Superlite series which I run on “The Ripper”. Poking around on the Wilwood site they have a new series of 6 Piston caliper that is a drop in for the Dynalites! Ohh, wait, it won’t work as they don’t support it with a 1.25″ think rotor. Back to the drawing board. So looking at again the Superlite SL6 Narrorw body caliper which could work except they are about .5″ further out from the face of the brake hat then the Dynalites on it now. What next?

    Called some Rim places to see how thick the pad is and face of the inside of the Rim is greater .5″ Superlite’s would be the best bet. Well I called around to a couple of the minilite dealers and got not much info, so I decided to give another shot to Bogart Racing Wheels http://www.bogartracingwheels.com/ and so it ends up that by sheer coincidence another fellow was working on having a set of rims made for his racing Tiger and found out a bunch of info on it. More as that unfolds. I was looking at the LS-6 (A bit older style) or the R/T. Talked to Rich at Bogart (as in Rich Bogart) and was extremely helpful. I need a follow up call but I like those rims and although more expensive then Panasports or Minilites or Superlites, they are 3 piece, strong and light. Plus they can be many in a lot more configurations. Below is the LS-6 (left) and the R/T (Right). The R/T might be more on the modern looking side, but still nice. I would have both centers in Black.
    Bogart LS6 Racing RimΒ Bogart RT Racing Rim

  20. skip hire Finchley September 23, 2013 at 5:02 am #

    Hmmm is anyone else experiencing problems with the pictures oon this blog loading?
    I’m trying to find out if its a problem on my end or if it’s the blog.
    Anyy feedback would be greatly appreciated.

  21. Sandy September 23, 2013 at 9:40 am #

    Yes their are some issues with images that are in posts. Most all of the images can be found on the main site at http://www.gtsparkplugs.com and if you are interested in the Tiger stuff look under PROJECTS or CAR on the sites main menu.

    Sandy

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